The White Temple

The White Temple, in Thai Wat Rong Khun, stands beside the main highway about 13 km south of Chiang Rai. By the late 20th century the original village temple on the site was falling apart, with no money for repairs. In 1997 the Chiang Rai-born artist Chalermchai Kositpipat decided to rebuild it completely, to his own design and largely with his own money.

Chalermchai trained in Thai art at Silpakorn University in Bangkok and spent four years painting the murals of Wat Buddhapadipa, a Thai temple in London, before returning home. He has since been named a National Artist of Thailand. To keep control of his vision, he caps individual donations at 10,000 baht rather than accept money from big sponsors.

The white stands for the Buddha's purity, and the mirrored glass set into the plaster catches the light. In contrast, the golden building nearby stands for the body and worldly desire. The imagery is dramatic, sometimes unsettling, and deliberately modern. An earthquake in May 2014 damaged parts of the temple, but it reopened within days and was restored. The work is far from over: the finished compound is planned to have nine buildings, and completion isn't expected until around 2070. Chalermchai has said that "only death can stop my dream but cannot stop my project".